jumpsuit · Uncategorized

Shelby Romper by True Bias Review

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The Shelby Dress/Romper  is True Bias’ lastest pattern. I was in utter shock when it came out. It’s not actually named after me, but it’s still pretty cool to have a pattern out with your name.

I’m not sure I would’ve bought this pattern if it didn’t have my name for 2 reasons. 1) it is a fabric hog, for the long version I needed 4.5 yards. I normally won’t buy more than 3 yards due to budget. 2) I wasn’t sure it was different enough from the Yari Jumpsuit to warrant owning both. Not to say I’m not happy I bought it, just sharing my full thoughts.

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The fabric is Rayon Challis. I have been sewing with Rayon Challis a lot, it is so pretty and soft to wear, but it is difficult to cut out. As I was cutting, I felt like I was cutting very accurately but when I went to sew it, found out it was growing on me. I’m a pin and scissors gal when I cut out my fabric, but Rotary cutter is probably best for Rayon Challis. The tricky part is the pattern pieces being too long. The fabric I used was on clearance which made it affordable for me to make this. Unfortunately, at the time of writing this, they only had 1 yard left.

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I went into this a little cocky. Having just made the Yari, I figured I knew exactly what adjustments to make. I sewed a size 4 in the bust graded to a 6 at the waist. I did a small bust adjustment and added 1.5″ to the leg length. I also added some room in the back crotch.
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Next time I use this pattern, I would make more adjustments. I haven’t quite nailed my fitting adjustments with True Bias. I love her designs, but my body compared to her body block isn’t a perfect fit. I was a little timid with my small bust adjustment, next time I would do a bigger adjustment. It seemed pretty good when standing, but when sitting, i have a lot of gaping. I think the front neckline could be a tad shorter.

I also think I could use a broad back adjustment. I can feel a bit of tightness there. The armhole isn’t perfect either. I think I need to lower the armhole and scoop a bit out of the front bodice armhole, and maybe add a bit more room to the cap sleeve. All that being said, I absolutely love the fit of the bottoms. It is so swishy and elegant. The drape is lovely.

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I learned that I always need to make muslins when it comes to jumpsuits. I also learned that when making muslins, make sure you try sitting down. Had I made a muslin, I don’t think I would have changed anything because standing it fits pretty good. It’s when I sit I have issues, and I don’t normally try sitting with muslins.

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Pattern: Shelby Dress/Romper by True Bias View D

Size: 4 bust/6waist

Fabric: Rayon Challis

Alterations: small bust adjustment, 1.5″ to leg length, small amount added to crotch curve

Overall: the bottom of the romper is an absolute win. I love the look of the garment, although it is a little extra. I wish I had made a muslin to make better adjustments. I haven’t nailed the fit yet. I would like to make the short dress version. It’s a beautiful pattern, but it isn’t necessarily a pattern you want to make over and over.

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Dress · Uncategorized

Vogue 9253 Honeymoon Dress

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This vogue dress has been everywhere. Often big 4 patterns don’t get a ton of love in the insta sewing community, but this one totally has. I was slightly skeptical of it due to the deep neckline that I would be able to wear it as comfortably as the makers before me. As well as the need to stay modest. Thus, I’ve dubbed it as my honeymoon dress because if there is ever a time to not worry about modesty, it’s for the honeymoon.

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So the deets: it’s Vogue 9253 in View A. I sewed up a size Medium with a small bust adjustment. I’m sure I would have had a ton of gaping with the small bust adjustment with such a deep neckline. I have a 1″ difference in bust rather than the standard 2″ difference. Certain patterns this makes more of a difference than others. I simply cut the kimono sleeves off, did the small bust adjustment like normal and then taped the kimono sleeves back on.

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I’ve been on a Rayon Challis binge. A lot of my makes have been with it. I love how Rayon Challis feels. It can be a pain to use in that it grows. I didn’t have too much trouble with that on this one. I used tailor tacks to mark the pleats and that worked well. The particular fabric I used can be found here at fabric.com. I ordered 3.5 yards and had just enough for view A. I basically never make maxi dresses due to the yardage needed, it just makes a garment so costly. This fabric is a bit of a fabric hog, and I had no leftover fabric. I had to cut piece 4 on a single layer to get it to fit due to the width.

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If you were wondering if you could use an invisible zipper instead, the answer is no. The ties make that area too thick to close. I tried.  I’ve actually never used a regular zipper. It turned out decent but my next go around at a regular zip this way would go much better.

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The pattern calls for bias tape but you only need a small amount to finish the back neckline, so if you have a little bit on hand, it’ll do.

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Pattern: Vogue 9253 View A

Size: Medium

Fabric: Rayon Challis

Adjustments: small bust adjustment

Overall: I’m really excited to wear this on my honeymoon. It’s really simple to make but has a really glamorous look.

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Blouse · Uncategorized

Short Sleeved Givre Top

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My goal of adding more shirts to my wardrobe continues with the Givre t-shirt from deer & doe. This was such a cost-efficient make as I already had the pattern and fabric. I’ve made the Givre once before –> Givre Top Review: SewMyStyle2019

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I sewed up the same size as before: 36. I took out the additional length I added last time (last time I wanted it to cover my butt for leggings), so this is the original length of the pattern. To make it short sleeved, I simply didn’t use the contrast sleeve. I considered adding length to the sleeve, as I wasn’t sure how short it would be after hemming, but I’m glad I didn’t.

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These fabrics may look a bit familiar to you. The animal print was used in this dress –> Animal Print M7429 Minerva Crafts and the black is leftover from my first givre. I did not have very much left of that animal print jersey. I wasn’t sure it would be enough for both the yoke and the sleeve, but I did. This pattern is great for scraps. I love animal print way too much to let the fabric go to waste.

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The animal print is more of a midweight while my black is more lightweight. Much more stretch in the black, but it’s totally fine. I sewed this up real quick, did not take much time at all. I did enjoy using my twin needle for the hems and neckline.

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Pattern: Givre top

Size: 36

Fabric: leftover  jersey fabrics

Alterations: left off contrast sleeve

Overall: Win, win, win. I still have aspirations to add another contrast panel in the body and use 3 fabrics in it. I have a pinterest photo I love like that. But the right fabrics have to come along.

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Blouse · Uncategorized

Lucerne Blouse: ‘Hey June’ June review

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Are you participating in Hey June June? I’ve really only sewn 2 Hey June Patterns in the past, but with the memorial day pattern sale and ‘Hey June’ June going on, I thought it was the perfect time to make the Lucerne Blouse.

Not to mention I’m starting to focus on making tops. I’ve made so many dresses, I’ve realized my separates wardrobe is a bit lacking. It’s tricky because most of the time, I want my tops to be relaxed but my sewing tends to be on the dressy side.

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The Lucerne is perfect because it blends dressy and casual. I opted for view A, the tie sleeves and v neck neckline. I really love V-necks on tees. Most of my RTW tops are V neck. I always struggle sewing V-necks though because it hard to pivot at just the right point.

I really need to just mark with chalk the point to pivot at. But alas, I have never done that. I am really happy with the V on this top. I did try to pivot too early but I was really cautious and when I saw the pivot was too soon, I straighten my fabric and did a few more stitched before trying to pivot again.

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I used a drapey Rayon Challis. You may recognize the fabric from My First Circle Skirt. I had quite a bit of fabric leftover due to initially not having enough fabric, reordering and then the 2nd amount was able to fit. I finally found a good use for it.

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I really liked hemming the bottom at the beginning. It made the ending process fly by, and the curve was much easier.

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I tacked the facing down at the shoulders. She does say you can topstich around the neckline to secure it down, but doesn’t recommend it for really drapey fabrics or a classier look. I opted not to topstich. So the facing does sometimes want to come up a bit at the V, but it really isn’t too big of a deal, I really didn’t want the look of the topstitching.

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The ties were super easy to do. Much easier than the off the shoulder tie top I just made. The ties are completely different, but I would much rather sew this version of ties.

Pattern: Lucerne Top from Hey June Handmade

Fabric: Rayon Challis from Fabric.Com

Size: 8

Alterations: none

Overall: Love it. It is the perfect woven tee pattern. You could easily sew this without the ties for a very basic V neck. I’m planning another Lucerne with the petal sleeves.

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Blouse · Uncategorized

M7543 Off Shoulder Summer Top

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I’ve started realizing in the last couple months that I really need to be sewing tops over dresses. I have not been acting on this realization at all, I’ve made so many dresses. But I finally made a top.

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I’ve actually never worn an off the shoulder top. It’s a style trend I’ve envied but never tried to pull off. Part of that is that I can’t wear it to work. I’ve accepted that it’s just an ‘off the clock’ top.

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I used M7543 in view B. I actually had a different off the shoulder pattern in my make nine, but it was for knits only and I really had wovens in mind for off the shoulder. I used a 1 inch gingham. I prefer bigger checks over small and this fits the bill.

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This top was very easy. I made a size Small graded to a Medium. I made small bust adjustment but it wasn’t necessary. The most difficult part was hemming the ties on the sleeve. It is very curvy. My best tip is a lot of pressing.

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This top will be part of my honeymoon wardrobe. It’s light and airy, perfect for cancun weather and showing off my shoulders for the man as well.

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Pattern: M7543 in View B

Fabric: Gingham from fabric.com

Size: small to medium

Alteration: Small bust adjustment

Overall: Really cute, fast and easy top to add to my wardrobe. I’ll make the dress version at some point for sure.