I basically feel like I can take over the world after making these. I’m a sewing bada**. One of my sewing goals for summer was to sew with denim. Obviously since July’s Sew My Style Challenge had Lander Pants by True Bias, I had to attempt. and I slayed. They are basically perfect except for one fit issue.
Since pants are tricky, I did want to make a muslin. If you know me, you should know I hate making muslins. I feel like I’m wasting my time and money on it. So for me, wearable muslins are the way to go if I’m making a muslin. I had just enough fabric leftover from my amber pinafore to make it. I thought it would similar enough to denim. It’s a twill, I think.
I do wish I had taken these photos before cutting out the denim. I tried them on and they fit pretty great. But looking at the back photos, you can see it rides up my butt a little. I think the lightweightness of it makes me not notice it, but I can tell in my denim pair. Next time I make these, I’ll add some length in the crotch. A change I did make from the muslin was I added 1/4″ to the front crotch, below the buttons. I noticed some wrinkles there. I think that was a good change.
You can see it riding up a little. 1/4″ to 1/2″ added to back crotch length and maybe lowering it 1/4″ would probably solve that problem. I know I’ve seen several others post with this problem, I should’ve known. I’ll forever be mad at myself, haha. Now what I am pleased with is the pockets. If you look at the shape, you’ll notice it’s a different shape. I did not take another pattern pockets. I took 1/4″ out of each side as the pockets seemed a bit large to me. Then I marked the center and 1/4″ up from the edges and created a pentagon. I just like this look much better. The square pockets give me camp counselor vibes.
I have never worked with topstitching thread before. Overall, it went well. It was a bit annoying switching thread and needles every time I needed to topstitch though. The buttonholes are not topstitching thread. I tried it with the topstitching thread and it was a disaster. So I unpicked it and used a similar color of normal thread to do the buttonholes. I didn’t use the automatic buttonhole on the top button because the edges were too thick, so I just used a zigzag stitch, marked the length, went back and forth several times. It doesn’t look as nice as the other ones, but it’s not bad.
Shall we talk buttons? Do not buy dritz jeans buttons. I repeat, do not buy Dritz. I bought 2 pack ( I think there are like 6 in each one) for both my versions. Went through both packages on the muslin and still didn’t have jeans buttons on it. The tacks kept bending. I bought some from blackbird fabrics, and not one tack bent. And they look nicer.
For the muslin, I folded up the bottom. I decided to go with a frayed look on my final. So i shortened the length by 1 1/4″. I did a line of stitching 5/8 from the bottom to prevent it from fraying more than that. I basically hacked at the bottom with my seam ripper.
Pattern: Lander Pants from True Bias
Size: 6 in the waist graded to 10 in hips
Fabric: midweight denim from Stylemakers Fabric
Alterations: Pockets put inside using True Bias Tutorial, 1/4″ added to front crotch, made back pockets smaller and pentagon shape, frayed bottom hem (will adjust back crotch next time)
Overall: I’m on cloud 9 with these. Will I make another before the end of summer. No I won’t have time. Will I next summer, probably. The fit is pretty great, minus the back wedgie. It is a lot of work using denim, so I gotta be in the right mindset of slow sewing to work on these.