SewMyStyle2019 Overview

Good News! The Schedule has been released! In this post I will share the options for each month, thoughts on the patterns, what/if I plan on making.

January

This was choose your own activewear. I made the Avery leggings by Helen’s closet. You can find the full review here

February 

Either the Givre tee by Deer & Doe or Sheona by Athina Kakou.

I choose to make the Givre. I’ve posted some peeks on insta, but you’ll have to wait for the full review on Reveal day.

March

Blackwood Cardigan by Helen’s Closet or Como knit cardi by Style arc

I really wanted either the Blackwood or the Fulton sweater blazer chosen for this month. So obvs I will be making the blackwood. I’ m a bit suprised they are picking patterns so similar. I thought by having 2 patterns they would try to have more options style wise. Anyways, I’ve been wanting to make the Blackwood for awhile now. 20% so thanks Helen.

April

Chi-town Chinos by Alina Sewing + Co or Hepburn Pants by Wardrobe by me

I’ve heard a lot about the Chi Town Chinos but Wardrobe by me is new to me. Trousers don’t get a whole lot of wear in my wardrobe. I’ll be making either a Summer short or a skirt using chi town chinos.

May

Novelista Shirt by Blank Slate Patterns or Sedona Shirt by Designer Stitch

Both designers are new to me, although I’ve heard of Blank Slate, just haven’t tried them. Although I love the look of the Sedona, I already have a button up shirt pattern I love. So I’m going to Substitute the Kalle Shirtdress. Which won’t really count, but I don’t care. I don’t love wearing collars. It’s my birthday month and I’ll do what I want to.

June

Orchid Midi Dress by Chalk and Notch or Quincy Dress by Jennifer Lauren Handmade

I’ve already made the Orchid Midi, I’m actually currently working on another. This will be a month before my wedding, so I’ll try to make another but we’ll see if I’m too busy. The Quincy is too similar for me to invest in it. It is also a new to me designer.

July

Ash + Dawn Jeans by Megan Nielson, Ames Jeans by Cashmerette, Fulford + Quadra Jeans by Thread Theory

Looks like a lot of options this month but it’s making sure it’s inclusive. I just made up the Ash Jeans, a blog post will be coming soon. This is my wedding month so I may skip this month but I loved the Ash jeans and if I have time I will make them again.

August 

Jordy Bralette by Emerald Erin, Power Sports Bra by Greenstyle Creations or Create your own Lingerie

I’ve already made 2 Jordys. I plan on making it as a swimsuit before my honeymoon. Not sure I’ll be feeling making another one right after my honeymoon but I might. I don’t work out enough to make myself desire to make a sports bra.

September

Phoenix Blouse by Hey june or Rhapsody Blouse by Love Notions

I’ve had great experiences with both of these companies. I love the look of both of these. But I’ve been wanting to make the Phoenix blouse for awhile, so that is probably the one I will make.

October

Kingston Jacket by Rebecca Page or Stevie Jean Jacket by Style Arc

I haven’t tried anything from these brands yet. They look super similar. I’m gonna have to research reviews on these too. But I’m excited to try making a jean jacket.

November

Desmond Backpack by TaylorTailor or Raspberry Rucksack by Sarkirsten

The Desmond is super popular. I don’t think it’ll fit into my life. Unless my fionce wants one for his work trips. The raspberry rucksack is in testing but I’m intrigued. So i”m on the fence about this on since I have a few other accesories planned this year for bridal gifts and I’m more of a garment sewist

December

Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Case Patterns or Night Garden Set by Sew to Grow

I’ve been wanting to make the Carolyns forever. I would have absolutely been all for this. But I’m currently making Butterick 6296 and it has a very similar look. I will probably substitute that in. Again, not really allowed but I’m broke girl.

That’s it. Overall, some exciting makes. There are some I’ve made before, but one of my sewing goals this year is to make patterns multiple times to perfect fit and finishings. So it’ll help me accomplish that.

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Freya Sweater Dress on Minerva

This wonderful french terry Freya Dress is up on the Minerva Crafts blog here

Simplicity 8380: Wedding Rehearsal Dress

I’ve been doing a lot of brainstorming on my attire for all the special occasions associated with the wedding. The first one I landed on was for the wedding rehearsal. I really want to feel special the entire wedding weekend. I decided upon a one shoulder dress Simplicity 8380

The things that stood out on this pattern that I loved were the circle skirt bottom, the applique, and obviously the stand out one shoulder.

My standard sizing for Simplicity patterns is a size 12 bust graded to a 14 waist. Unfortunately for this pattern, the sizing range ends a 12 for the smaller size and starts at 14 for the larger. I am super cheap so I was not going to buy the pattern 2 times. So I traced of the size 12. I looked at the size chart and the inch difference in the waist from the 12 to 14. which was 1.5″ I needed to add on.  I then divided that by 4, which came to .375 about 3/8. I added that to each side of the waistband, keeping the top the same to match up with the bodice, and added it onto the skirt pieces.

I did make a muslin of the top. I just wasn’t sure how a one shoulder would fit and I really wanted this dress to turn out great. I ended up realizing I need to make a small bust adjustment.

I also added on 4″ to the skirt. The dress looked so short on the model, and I’m tall. I originally added 2″ on. I held the pattern up to my waist and was like “nope, too short” and added on another 2 inches. Very glad I did that.

I also realized when I tried on the muslin that the pattern has the one shoulder on the right shoulder, and as a left-hander, having it on the left felt more comfortable to me. SO I just switched it over on the final version and flipped the instructions when it said to sew the right pieces, I did the left.

I felt pretty committed to making a really nice garment. So I originally sewed up according to instructions on binding the neckline and the armhole. I could have left it. If it wasn’t for such a good occasion, I would have because I am not a perfectionist in my sewing. But it was pretty wobbly looking. In part due to the thickness of my fabric and in part probably not cutting the binding perfectly. So I unpicked the binding, ditched the binding pieces and used bias tape. I did not use the pattern pieces for bias tape length because the pattern intended for stretch with the bias is woven so it doesn’t have much of. So I sewed it so that the bias lays on the inside of the garment and the stitching holding it down is straight, which was much easier to achieve.

After finishing the neckline and armhole, I decided to go ahead and attach the applique. The pattern has you do that last and with hand stitching. I avoid hand stitching if possible. I thought it would be easier to use my machine to attach it before the skirt was put on. I got the applique from etsy here. It did come from China, so it took a bit to arrive.

After that the only change I made was I cut off about 5/8 from the bodice where the zipper will be attached. I found I had a bit too much room there. The small bust adjustment made the bodice fit perfect otherwise. I probably could have sewn up a size 10 in the bodice but that’s ok, I made it work.

I used a scuba from Cali Farics, I wanted the skirt to hold a little body, and I’ve never worked with scuba, so I wanted to check that off my sewing bucket list. Sorry, but it’s out of stock now. The pattern calls for lining but it is just for the waistband and pockets. So if you use a thinner fabric, you could use your main fabric or if you have jersey scraps. I did buy tricot because I wanted everything to go right with this dress and the scuba is thick so the lining parts need to be thin.

Because this is for a very special occasion, I wanted to make sure it was special. So I also decided to add some beading. I haven’t beading since college Jr year, so about 6 years. But it came back to me pretty easily. I just picked up some seed beads from JoAnns, some beading thread and needles and went to work.

Pattern: Simplicity 8380

Fabric: Scuba from Cali Fabrics

Size: 12

Alterations: small bust adjustment, bias tape instead of binding, 1.5″ added waist/hip, 4″ added length, shoulder switched to left side, 5/8″ removed from bodice side seam

Overall: I love the dress. It is definately a special occasion dress, I won’t get a lot of wear out of it nor will I make it multiple times. But I’m very excited to wear it to my wedding rehearsal. The pattern was great. I made a lot of changes, but mostly because I’ve been sewing for awhile and know what I need to do to make a great fitting piece, but it would be great as is for a beginner.

 

Avery Leggings #SewmyStyle January19

This is my entry for SewMyStyle January. I have some mixed feelings about SewMyStyle this year. This would be my 3rd-ish year doing sewmystyle. I love the community aspect of sewing alongside other sewists the same pattern.

Well, this month didn’t have a pattern. It was just “sew activewear”. Which is a bummer because no discount patterns and everyone isn’t sewing the same pattern. My 2 favorite parts.

They have yet to release the whole schedule of patterns. Each month will have 2 patterns to choose from besides Jan. We are also supposed to have the discount for those patterns a month in advance, but that’s not happening for Jan or Feb for sure. Med did update us on Feb (maddie is taking a leave of absence). Either the Sheona tee by Athina Kakou or Givre dress by Deer and Doe. I’m Planning a Givre to go with these leggings.

When they do release the full schedule of patterns, I’ll post an update on which patterns I’ll plan on and my thoughts on it all. I’m really hoping they can pull it together because this is a challenge I love doing.

Onto what I actually made. This is my 2nd time making the Avery leggings from Helen’s Closet. I made my first pair for Minerva Crafts. You can find that here

I didn’t make any changes from my first make. The first pair are a bit on the tight side in the waist but my fabric this time has more stretch so I thought it was best to make no changes. I was right, the fit is absolutely perfect on these.

I used bamboo jersey that I won in a giveaway from Harts fabric. I couldn’t find it on the site. I won like 3 meters, so I have plenty for something else. I have never worked with bamboo jersey before but I loved it. They remind of me Lularoe in how they feel. They are on the thin side, which is pretty standard for leggings, but you can’t get away with them as pants. Gotta cover the behind.

The fabric is a bit quirky, which is a bit outside of my normal picks for fabric. I wont it, so I can’t complain right. But I thought it was a perfect fit for leggings, since a lot of legging fabrics in RTW are quirky, and I can wear them on Valentine’s day to school, I think the kiddos will love them.

I took extra care to make sure the hearts were facing the right direction when I cut them out. These were really fast to make.

The thing that makes they tried and true (I know it’s only my 2nd time making these) is that they only have one seam in the legs. So they don’t twist or anything when wearing them. Which is an issue I had with a Simplicity leggings pattern I made.

Pattern: Avery Leggings by Helen’s Closet

Fabric: Bamboo Jersey from Harts Fabric

Size: Medium in View A waistband and View B length

Alterations: None besides mixing views

Overall: Perfect leggings. Highly recommend this pattern.

 

My Second Jordy Bralette

Last time I made this, I said it was my favorite bra pattern I’ve made thus far. So I couldn’t help trying it out again. The great thing about this pattern and bras in general is that it uses such little fabric. Every time I make something in a jersey knit, I always think “those scraps could be a bra”.

I have a post on Minerva Crafts that will go live sometime in February, McCalls 7429, in Cheetah print fabric. I love animal print so much, that I used those scraps for this bra.

I had some foam left from the kit I used in my first version that I just bought a bra findings kit in nude from Emerald Erin.

I still really like my first version, but I really wanted to find the perfect fit before using this pattern for a swimsuit. Which I will be doing sometime before my honeymoon.  My first version was a 30D. This version is a 30DD. I prefer the bigger size. I could have probably made a 32D (the only difference would be the length of the band) but otherwise this is about perfect.

I was hoping in those pics comparison you’d be able to see the difference but it’s hard to tell. I think it’s because the first is so dark. In the first the band rides up occasionally. In the second I feel like the boobs are actually in the cup.

The only note of change for next time would be to use chalk or a pin to mark the notch on the foam cups instead of clipping it. It created a little gap that I had to zigzag over multiple times to close it and could have easily been avoided.

Pattern: Jordy Bralette

Size: 30DD

Fabric: Jersey Knit

Alterations: none

Overall: This one is my favorite me made bra thus far. I really feel like my sewing skills were really good on this one too.

 

Wedding Dress: Part 3 (The Skirt)

The journey with the skirt really starts with this post. In that post I made my first circle skirt, which is what I wanted to use for the tulle layers.

While working on that, I also made a toile of the satin layer. I used the pieces from the same pattern for the top. McCalls 7124. Everything was the same except I wanted a bit of a train. Not enough to need a bustle. I added about 8″ to the back piece. I added some to the side back as well. The only difference from the toile to the final was truing up the side and back to have a more rounded shape.

I used silk habatoi for the lining. The lining is exactly from the pattern, does not include the added train.

 

I couldn’t attach the bottom until I had all layers of tulle. Originally I wanted only 3 layers of tulle. I didn’t want it to get too poofy. After doing a bit more research on tulle wedding skirts, I went with 4 layers. If I kept track of my photos correctly (haha) then each photo shows the difference between each added tulle layer.

Drafting the circle skirt was a challenge just in the fact of size. Cutting it out was the hardest because tulle is static-y. I really felt like I was wrestling it. I cut out one layer of tulle at a time and sewed it up before cutting another layer so I could keep the pieces straight and not get too mad while cutting it out.

I thought I took a picture to show you how big the pattern pieces was for the circle skirt. But I can’t find it. Sorry. It was huge though, my apartment almost wasn’t big enough. It might be in my insta highlights.

I used an invisible zipper and hook and eye in the back. Hand stitched the waistband down.

If you can’t tell, I am not a procrastinator. I would have an anxiety attack if I was working on my dress still the day before my wedding. The picture above is not done, as I added some lace to the top edge, but it is done.

What this means for you, is having to wait for the final reveal. My wedding is July 28th. I should get photos back from my photographer within 30 days. Then I’ll share the final outcome with really nice photos.

Until then, I’ll be making my rehearsal dress, probably dresses for bridal showers and bachelorette party, and prepping for honeymoon attire.

M7257 Faux Fur Vest

I have been dying to work with faux fur since Inside the Hem made her coat. I had put M7257 on my make nine for 2019. I am always looking for things to check off my sewing bucket list and challenge myself. JoAnn’s had Faux Fur 40% off and I had to pick some up.

I wasn’t sure a fur coat would be me, but I have a coworker who has a faux fur vest she got from Stitch Fix that I am in love with, so I had to do my own version. So I made View C without the hood.

Over New Year’s I went with my fiance to Chicago where his brother and sister-in-law live. They were so nice to let us stay with them and help me find some fabric shops. We found a fabric shop that was very close to a subway station packed full of fabrics. I’m not entirely sure what kind of fabric it is but I think a satin possibly. I picked out the pink fabric that I used for lining. I did break a rule and cut one side of the front on the crossgrain, there was not quite enough at the shop and I really wanted to use it.

Step one on the pattern says to trim the fur on your seam allowances. I would say I think about 40%. I really struggled cutting it, and it was short fur anyways. I trimmed at the pockets and shoulders and some of the side seams until I gave up.  I used a pin to bring the fur to the outside after I bagged the lining out and this worked just fine.

Shall we talk length? I started with the longer length of C because I figured I would wear it with leggings. However, when I tried it on I felt a little too rectangular. I needed some shaping. I didn’t want it to be the length of B because then leggings would be a no-go. So I ended up cutting 6.5 inches off in the front, grading to 5.5 inches off at the side seams and 4 inches off in the back to get a little bit of a high/low hem.

Recently I’ve been listening to Sew & Tell Podcast. On it one of the girls made faux fur headbands for Christmas gifts and said she made a blog post on BurdaStyle on how to do it. Found here. It doesn’t take much fabric so I went for it to make full use of my faux fur.

I didn’t have any spare minky fabric and I wanted it to fully match, so I used the pink lining and interlined it with fleece for extra warmth. The only think I wish I would have done was slightly lengthen the elastic as it is a bit tight on my head. It won’t go anywear when on my head though.

Pattern: McCalls 7257

Fabric: Faux Fur from JoAnns and mystery fabric from a Chicago Fabric store

Size: Medium

Alterations: eliminated the hood, shortened length by 6.5″ in front graded to 4″ in back.

Overall: I’ve been dying to wear this but it’s been in the 60’s this week. So odd for January. I love it but I don’t see myself using this pattern again in a long while mainly because I don’t need 2 faux fur pieces in my wardrobe, this is in the special wear category.