purse · Uncategorized

Oriole Bag from Sew Sweetness: Free Pattern

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This one has been on my list a long time.  Purses are tricky for me to get started on because of needed notions. But I actually already had all the notions on hand for this one. I guess I took me til a quarantine to gather the supplies and make this one.

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This purse is a free pattern from Sew Sweetness. here. I made up the small version, which is still a pretty good size. Sew Sweetness has a great video tutorial on how to make this.

You may recognize the main fabric from M7549 Faux Leather Jacket and the lining from My Second York

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This was pretty straight forward. I treated the faux leather as if it was real leather. The only part I’m questioning is if the strap is sturdy enough. Real leather is thicker with no stretch and this has a bit of stretch.

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This scrap buster made me feel pretty good. It’s great to have this fabric be put to use. I still have some faux leather left but at least it’s a smaller piece.

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The purse has one inside pocket, no zippers.

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I would definitely make this again if I feel the need for another purse. Purse-making isn’t really my thing, but I think this is a great pattern to do every once in a while

Dress · Uncategorized

M7951 Sew you Roll challenge

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Do you listen to the Sew & Tell Podcast? It’s my 2nd favorite podcast. Nothing beats Love to Sew. They currently have a challenge going called Sew Your Roll. There are 3 categories to roll, you can find the challenge here.

It sounded like a lot of sun so I immediately went to roll. I rolled 7, 10, and 3. Blue, Solid, Cut-outs.

I gave a look through my patterns and landed on McCall’s 7951 view A.

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One thing about this pattern that I didn’t notice when I bought it was the cutout continue to the back, for like a rectangular cut out. From the front view, I assumed it was triangle cut-outs.  I couldn’t get on board with it, so I knew I was going to change that to be what I thought it was. This also made it easier to get in/out of because I did away with the hook and eyes and extended the zipper.

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I was initially very concerned about the fit of this because the bodice has very large waist darts with no side seam dart. This normally spells trouble. However, once I made the small bust adjustment, the dart was significantly smaller and it was fine.

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I sewed up a size 16 skirt/waistband and a 14 bodice with a small bust adjustment. Since the bodice has the cut out gap, I wasn’t concerned about connecting a size 14 to a size 16.

The pattern has one piece for the waistband. I didn’t have enough room on by fabric so I split it into front and back waistband. This ended up a good thing when I went to try it on as I really need the waistband to be a trapezoid, not square, so I added a diagonal at the side seams and it lays much better.

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A few other changes. I left off interfacing the bodice, I didn’t see that necessary. I added 1.5″ to the length, a usual adjustment for me. The only thing I would change next time is altering the shoulder seam, the neckline gaps just a little bit.

I really enjoyed this challenge.

Pattern: M7951 View A

Fabric: Chambray from fabric.com

Size: 16 waist/ 14 bodice

Alterations: altered cut-outs into triangles, omitted hook/eyes and added longer zipper, 1.5″ in length added, no bodice interfacing, broke waistband into 2 parts and angled it.

Overall: This pattern ended up working well for me after necessary adjustments. I would still be wary of recommending this pattern to others because of the large waist dart. If you like the style, take the time to muslin this one out.

 

Blouse · Pants · Uncategorized

Emmie McCall’s and Sabrina Slims

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Today I’m sharing a whole outfit. I’m really happy with these garments overall, but I definitely have some to learn when in comes to fitting. I almost have the Sabrina Slims there, but Emmie has a bit to go.

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Let’s start with the Emmie, also known as M8040. I absolutely love the sleeves of this top.  I still want to try the longer sleeve come fall.McCalls 8040 Pattern

So let’s start with the changes I did make. I started with a size 14 and the did a small bust adjustment.

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Here is where I’m struggling with fit. The neckline is too long when sitting. It’s more evident when standing if the shirt rides up a little.  I think adjusting the shoulder slope might fix it. If you look on pattern envelope, the model has pulling at the sleeve away from bodice. It doesn’t make much sense to me since there is so much room to the sleeve. But I have a little bit of that same thing.

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I want to give this pattern another go, but I need to give the fit a good long think. Suggestions welcome.

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I’ve made theSabrina Slims from Love Notions before here. It’s the perfect pattern for a work pant. I used the same fabric as before, Liverpool, in an Olive color. I added a zipper on the bottom.

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I made a few small changes to the pattern this go around. First, I lengthened the longest length by 1″.  I took about 1″ total out of the ankle to be more fitted. And I shortened the rise only on the front by 1/2″. I’m happy with the fit in the legs but I’m not sure the rise was the right way to go. I think I’m getting a bit of cameltoe, there is some pulling.

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In my last pair, I felt like there was too much fabric there. Based on the fitting guide, I might try adding length to the crotch. So basically moving fabric from the belly to the crotch. I may add that rise back in. I’m not sure, but I will be making more Sabrina Slims for sure.

 

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Dress · Uncategorized

M7124 Dress Hack

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I’m not quite sure how the tradition started, but over the last few years I started picked a nice dress to wear to my birthday dinner. Last year, I decided to make that special dress. This year, I decided to turn the tradition into making a birthday dress each year,

Around the holidays I was watching a Christmas movie on Lifetime and saw a really interesting bodice of a dress. My first reaction was I want to try to make that. Of coarse there are too many things going on around the holidays. As a month or 2 passed, I got it in my head that it should be my birthday dress this year.

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My birthday is May 27th so I am quite early this year. With the coronavirus quarantine going on, and some gifted fabric that was perfect for it, I couldn’t wait. Hopefully we’ll be able to go to restaurants on my birthday.

Do you recognize the pattern? Probably not, but I have used it before… on my wedding dress. Yes it’s that same pattern, and yes both are quite hacked. McCall’s 7124.

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M7124 | Misses' Floor-Length Sweetheart-Neckline Dresses ...

You can find the blogs over my wedding dress here : Wedding Dress: Part 3 (The Skirt) Wedding Dress: Part 2 (Bodice Fitting) Wedding Dress: Part 1 (planning)

I used the same view: view B as my base.

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I had been going over how to attempt the yoke in my head for a few months. I originally thought I would create bias tape, but I was struggling with this fabric holding a fold long enough to stitch it down and I didn’t like stitching showing. So I ended up creating tubes. Compared to my Inspo, the tubes are quite small. If I did this again, I would have made them wider.

I started by using double fold bias tape to create the frame of the pieces. I just took the width of some double fold bias tape store bought to create my own so the fabric would match. I just turned the ends in and stitched the pieces together. It would have been much cleaner to hand stitch it. It also would have been nice if the bias tape ended up the width of my seam allowance, but it’s slightly smaller which made stitching in later steps tricky.

I sewed up a bunch of tubes and then placed them diagonally, encasing the ends inside the bias tape frame. When I started going the opposite direction, I made sure to go over and under each diagonal piece.

 

Once it was all pinned in, I just sewed along the edge of the double fold bias tape encasing the ends in. I should have hand stitched this because some of the tubes moved around at the machine. It’s so fiddley.

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I started out at a size 14. I did some grading between sizing on my last one, but I thought I was just ‘oh so smarter’ this time and went rouge. I had quite a hard time with fitting.

Let’s start with adjustments I made from the ‘get-go’. I did a small bust adjustment. I also got nervous when I looked at the waist finished garment measurements and added 1/4″ to each side. I disregarded the skirt and drafted a 1/2 circle skirt to go with the bodice. I also added pockets to the side seam.

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If you follow my on instagram stories, you would have seen my woes. The first try on looked so bad. The boning was curving weird. P.S. Steam your boning. However, I decided I didn’t need the boning and seam ripped it out.

The waist was sitting to low and I had too much room in the side seam of the bodice (not the waist where I had added). So I seam ripped so much. Took the waistband out, cut 1″ out of the bodice, took 1/2″ out of the side seam and sewed it all back together. It was so much better.

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Inside the hem really helped me out with the adjustments. I also used her method for leveling the hem of the circle skirt. I can’t for the life of me find which video she talks about it in. But basically she uses her dress form to measure. It worked like a charm. It feels very even all the way around.

Pattern: M7124

Fabric: unknown, it was gifted to me

Size: 14

Alterations: SBA, shortened bodice 1″, 1/2 circle skirt, 1/2″ out of side seams, 1/4″ added to waistband, yoke hacked, took out boning

Overall: I enjoy having a challenge and this was that. It definitely wasn’t easy and took some time. I am looking forward to wearing it for my birthday though

 

pinafore · Uncategorized

Fleur Pinafore: Pattern Test

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I’m so happy to share this make with you. Brittani from Untitled Thoughts let me once again do a pattern test for her. It is a cute pinafore with the option between tie straps or button straps.

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I used some fabric that was gifted to me, so I don’t really know what it is but my best guess is a rayon or cotton lawn. It is very lightweight. This is not a recommended fabric but I had a hunch it would be just fine for it, and it was.

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I sewed a size 6 except I used a size 3 in the bib. No grading. Just stuck the 3 bib on the 6 waistband.

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It is a bit short for my taste, so next time I would add 2″. My bad, I know to add length to pattens.

I did learn how to turn straps with a chopstick. Believe it or not, I had never done with as I haven’t turned such a skinny piece with on end sewn shut.

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This was so fun to make. I’m so glad I got to pattern test this. It’s about to be the perfect weather for this

Bras · Uncategorized

Black Beauty Bra by Emerald Erin

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This is a pattern I have wanted to make since it’s release. It looked so beautiful. I’ve been slowly accumulating the things to make it. The pattern is expensive in terms of patterns. I get it. It’s an intricate pattern. But, it takes a good portion of my monthly budget, once you add fabrics and notions, I wouldn’t be able to make much of anything that month.

So I bought it when it was on sale. Waited a while. Looked through my stash and scavenged every part I could. Then I ordered what I didn’t have through B wear. It takes awhile to get delivered as it’s based in another country. It took a little over a month. I almost thought it wasn’t coming.

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I got the lace in a kit from Tailor Made Shop a long time ago when I made Fenway bra. She is very generous in her kits and I had just barely enough to squeeze this out.

You may notice the side cradle is a different fabric. I had enough lace for it until I accidentally cut 2 of the same pieces rather than a mirror image. So I had to be flexible. I got lucky I had something in similar colors. I did not have enough lace for the powerbar so I just doubled the lining up. Had I known I would’ve messed up the side pieces originally, I may have used that in the powerbar too, but I already had the powerbar assembled when I noticed and it might have made the laces clash.

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Emerald Erin also has the Jordy bralette, which I’ve made a few times. Jordy Bralette: Emerald Erin Review Jordy Bikini My Second Jordy Bralette

My 1st one was a bit small and I switched sizes on my 2nd one, which was perfect. I used that to base my sizing for this one, since she made both patterns. I went with a 30DD. This means I used a size 36 wire. It was the right call. It fits great.

Overall, I really want to make more of these. Especially a solid black one because I wear my RTW black bra a majority of the time. It is a great pattern and I highly recommend it.

jumpsuit · Uncategorized

McCall’s 7936 Jumpsuit Review

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I’ve had this jumpsuit (McCall’s 7936) on my list for quite a while. I loved the front zip for easy bathroom access, but I was nervous about it looking too “boiler suit” so I was cautious about picking a fabric.

McCall's 7936 Misses'/Miss Petite Romper, Jumpsuit and Belt

I was very fortunate to be gifted some fabric from my father-in-law’s godmother. She is quite old and used to sew a ton but isn’t able to anymore. He told her I sewed and she gave me a bunch of fabrics. I loved them all. They are totally in my color family.

My best guess is that this is a cotton lawn. I don’t know for sure, but it’s lightweight and feels like cotton, could have some rayon in it.

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It is quite a loose-fitting pattern and I would not wear it without a belt. The pattern comes with a tie belt, but I don’t tend to like fabric belts. I prefer store bought leather belts.

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I did make a few adjustments to this. I started with a size Medium. I did a quite significant small bust adjustment. I raised the neckline 1″. I did that for modesty. I thought the neckline looked quite low on the pattern.

I also lengthened the shorts length by 1″ because I have long legs. I then tried to tissue fit and was nervous about the length and added 1/2″ to the rise. I was very glad I did that.

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I opted for the shorts version because I thought the print would be too much in the other views. I also prefer more of a playsuit look than a full jumpsuit. This does limit it’s wears as I can’t wear it to school. Due to the coronavirus, that doesn’t really matter much currently.

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Pattern: M7936

Fabric: unknown, most likely cotton lawn

Size: Medium

Alterations: small bust adjustment, neckline raised 1″, 1/2″ in rise added, 1″ in shorts length added

Overall: It’s a nice pattern. It doesn’t fit into my wardrobe so I don’t anticipate making more. I would prefer it to be more of a fitted pattern to be honest. Personal preference.