Dress · Uncategorized

Vogue 1587 special occasion dress

Often I hear sewists making a vacation wardrobe or something for a specific occasion. Most of the time, I think they are a bit silly. I make what I want as I can. When it’s time for vacation, I pull from my closet. This post is a bit of an exception. My boyfriend’s sister gave me some fabric and I’ve had Vogue 1587 in my head for awhile, then I decided I need to make it in time for John’s birthday.

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September has been so busy for me. I really have only been able to sew on week nights for a few hours at a time. So I was bit cray for wanting this done in like a week’s time. I somehow did it though. It was a great time out celebrating with the boy.

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Vogue 1587 was one of the newer pattern releases. I loved how sleek it was, but I knew immediately I’d need to change a few things. I mostly wanted to get rid of the slit at the bottom. To me, it looks a bit like an arrow to the private areas. That was a pretty easy fix. I just straightened off the pattern pieces.

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I also was worried a bit about modesty… and it turned out for good reason. I added 3 inches to the length, and it was still pretty short. I’m 5’7″ so I typically add 1 1/2″ to patterns in length. I probably lost 1/2″ of the extra length due to a error, I’ll talk about in a minute. You can see in the model photo, it falls really short, but just wanted to mention that if I bend down without much thought, I’d be flashing people, with that extra length.

So let’s talk about an error. I’m still not sure if it’s something I did or an error in instructions. I reread it over and over, and I feel like I did it correctly. Basically, I struggle with attaching linings. The lining was stuck to the outside, when I turned it from the back zip, per the instructions, it just flipped in a never ending circle. I ended up unpicked the bottom hem, flipping the lining, and hand sewing the bottom hem. I had trimmed the seam allowance before attempting to flip the lining, which is how I lost a little bit of length.

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This dress was a bit of a lesson of keep changing things til you like it. I got to the point where I could try it on, and I wasn’t loving the color, and the arm holes weren’t fitting right. If you follow me on instagram, you saw that journey a bit.  To fix the color, I decided to try dying it. I used Scarlet Rit dye and a tad bit of Petal Pink. I did a test first, with some fabric and grosgrain ribbon. Below you can see the color difference. The cream made me feel a bit old, and the pink feels a bit more romantic.

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To fix the sleeve issue, I shortened the strap till it was only showing about 1/2″. It was quite a long strap. I do tend to have to shorten straps, but I was surprised by how much this time. That also helped raise the center front. I did raise the neckline by 1/2″ before I cut it out. Even with the shortened straps and the 1/2″ raise in the pattern neckline, I still wasn’t comfortable in it, and I couldn’t quite wear any bra with it.

Thanks to a sewing insta buddy @sewnotes, recommended adding some lace. I ended up doing this. I just handsewed a tiny bit in at the very end, and it made it much more comfortable to wear, with no worry on what bra to wear.

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I was really impressed with the finishings on this pattern. I had never used grosgrain ribbon to finish edges. It’s quite similar to using bias binding. I really think it adds a nice touch. In addition, it is also fully lined.

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Pattern: Vogue 1587

Size: 12 bust graded to 14 waist

Fabric: not really sure, it was fabric given to me. There is some stretch to it. I used poly lining I had leftover from another project

Alterations: Straightened the front hem, cut front skirt on fold, raised neckline 1/2″, shortened straps, added 3″ length

Overall: I really like how it turned out. Will I make it again? probably not, the pattern is too much of a stand out to have more than one.

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Blouse · Uncategorized

Fringe Blouse : SewMyStyle Sept

For being a fairly simple top, this took me a bit only because of how busy I’ve been this month. I still have 2 weeks til the actual reveal day, but I typically get SewMyStyle done in the first week just cause deadlines make me nervous. fringe4

I’ve been wanting to make the Fringe Dress from Chalk and Notch for a long time. I actually applied to pattern test it but didn’t get pick. Then, I suggested it in the survey Jessica Lorraine put out for SewMyStyle.. and it got picked, so you’re welcome.   I originally wanted to do View A in dress form but after making the Myosotis dress and needing more tops, I switched to view B in a blouse.

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I ended up with this beautiful cotton lawn from Style Makers Fabric. Style Makers is always a bit more expensive then I like, but the quality is always there. After looking through tons of fabric, I knew I had to splurge and get the one I really liked.

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I made a size 4 bust and graded to an 8 waist. I know that bottom is loose and those measurements don’t matter as much, but I was worried about the point right before the gathering being too small. I kept the darts at a size 4.  The fit is pretty good. The only fit change I would make if I make this again is add a little more room in the back neck. I’m getting a little bit of the same problem I had with the Myositis dress. There is a little resistance when moving my shoulders.

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I did lower the neckline 1/4″. I did this for really no apparent reason. There were a few makes on insta that it seemed a little high to me. During the making process, I thought I might regret not stitching to the original neck height. The change was so minimal that it probably didn’t matter much, but I do really like where the neck hits on me.

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I really love the finishing on this top. The facing completely secures the raw edges in, and there are only a few serged edges showing. I really like how she reccommended sewing a guide line for folding, I think it really helped my seams look better.

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I rarely share pricing, but for those interested, I got the pattern for $9.60 with the sew my style discount, and the fabric cost $31.68 after tax and shipping. There shipping is a bit high. So this blouse costs me about $40. It is my no means a “cheap, saving money by making” blouse, but I could see this in a high end shop for $80 so I’m happy cost-wise.

Pattern: Chalk and Notch Fringe Dress

Size: 4 graded to 8 at waist

Fabric: Cotton lawn from Style Makers Fabric

Alterations: lowered neckline

Overall: This dress is really my style, I love fit and flare. I love a good gather. I can see myself making this again. I do still want to try view A at some point.

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skirt · Uncategorized

Bibi Skirt from Tilly’s Stretch Book

I’ve had Tilly and the Button’s Stretch book since it came out. Most of the patterns are very fall like. Except the Jonidress, but I can’t decide if I love that one. So it’s been sitting pretty for a few months.

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At the end of August I was running out of fabric money. I give myself $75 to spend on fabric/patterns/notions a month. Safe to say that doesn’t last long, but it’s what my teachin budget can afford. So I went digging in my (basically non-existent) stash. And I found enough left over fabric from my first toaster sweater to squeeze out a Bibi skirt.

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So the Bibi Skirt has 2 pattern pieces, if you don’t do any of the hacks. I honestly don’t care for the hacks so it worked out perfect for me. If you can only fit 2 panels on your scrap fabric, you can make a contrasting skirt, which makes this pattern a great scrap buster.

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The fabric is a midweight Ponte di Roma from who know where. Probably fashionfabricsclub or fabric.com. I got it 2 years ago, so it doesn’t really matter. I cut a straight size 4.

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I actually really need some more skirts, so I’m pretty happy to add this to my wardrobe. Although I really need some other colors besides olive green. Do you all end up making things in the same color?

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The front/back/side panels are all the same, so you can’t really mix up what goes where. It’s nice not to worry about front/back when putting it on. I love the length for work. It was such a simple, easy sew.

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The only negative I can think to this skirt is that it’s best with tucked in shirts, and there are lines from where the shirt is. This happens cause it’s a knit. It probably looks great with crop tops but I rarely wear those.

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Pattern: Bibi Skirt from Tilly’s Stretch

Fabric: Ponte di Roma

Size: 4

Alterations: None

Overall: Great stashbuster, easy for work, easy to make. Win, win, win all around

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Blouse · Uncategorized

Tie Front Shirt: S8601 Review

I’ve been eager to make this shirt. It’s the other quick shirt I planned when I realized I needed more shirts in my wardrobe. The other one was here. I actually wanted to do this one first, but I only ordered 1 1/2 yards of fabric, and when I cut the pieces on the bias, I didn’t have enough so I had order more. I may have been able to make it on the yardage if I had planned better, I’m not sure

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This fabric is AMAZING! It’s a rayon twill from fabric.com. I’ve never used a lightweight twill. All the twills I’ve done are medium weight and pretty still. The rayon makes this so drapey and soft.  I love it, highly recommend. It was hard to cut out. I prefer using scissors on most things, but this definitely requires a rotary cutter. I used my scissors and noticed when trying to line up the stripes for the front, that my first cut moved around on me, which also might have been why I ran out of fabric. I ended up using the piece I cut out to duplicate a mirror image, rather than the pattern so my seams would line up.

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Let’s talk changes. I lowered the neckline 1/4″. I do this to all my simplicity patterns. Make sure to adjust the facing as well. I lowered the start of the ties an inch and a half. Still shows a whole lot of belly. An undershirt is required to wear to school for sure, and my own comfort level. I also lengthened the ties by 2″. I did this based on the pictures on the pattern and a few reviews I read. I just prefer it. I sewed up view A but I did shorten the sleeve. I just left a couple inches I wanted for the sleeve and cut off the rest.

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The instructions on this is better than some simplicity patterns. It does give some mention of finishing seams. The facings are a nice finish. I liked that it called for an elastic cord for the button but also recommended swapping it for a thread loop or self-fabric bias piece. I opted for the bias piece. I did the thread loop for my last make and wanted to switch it up. I think I prefer the bias piece.

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Pattern: Simplicity 8601 View A

Size: bust 12 graded to waist 14

Fabric: Rayon Twill

Alterations: 1/4″ lowered neckline, lowered tie opening, lengthened ties, shortened sleeves, and bias tape hook for button

Overall: I love this. With the shortened sleeves it is very similar to the key largo top by Hey June Handmade. Not to take away from that pattern, because I’m sure it’s beautifully drafted and with better instructions. But I love the look of that pattern, so I’m not mad that it has some similar features. I definitely could see myself making this pattern again. Highly recommend.

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Uncategorized · Blouse

S8454 View C Review

Lately I’ve really felt low on tops. I’ve got a ton of dresses, but when I go to pick a top, my choices are Ogden cami or solid v-neck. I noticed this back during me made may. Since I told myself I’d sew some tops… but it hadn’t happened. When I had a little extra in my sewing budget I ordered 1-2 yards of a few fabrics to make some. This was the first one.

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Awhile ago during one of JoAnn’s sales, I picked up Simplicity 8454. I’ve seen many bloggers make view A, but none of the others. It is way too hot for long sleeves. It was between B and C but view C reminded me of the Farrow pattern by Chalk & Notch, which I adore.Image result for simplicity 8454

I followed my normal sizing/adjustments for Simplicity Patterns. So I made a size 12 in the bust and graded to 14 in the waist. I also lowered the neckline 1/4″. I’ve just noticed in the past their necklines fall high on me. I’m really happy with where the neckline falls

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I used a challis batik from fabric.com. It is very lightweight. Perfect for the heat of summer. The only thing I don’t love about this fabric is the way the dark blue looks in contrast with the really white splotches. I’ve always been drawn to some of the batiks but for some reason I was in love. The good thing with batiks is the color is just as strong on the front and back, and the wrong sides do show at the bottom of the sleeve.

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The back is a really nice touch. The pattern calls for elastic cording for it. I didn’t buy any. Mainly cause I’m cheap, forgot to buy some, and was eager to finish it. Instead I followed a youtube video on sewing a thread loop. Was really easy and works great.

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I do want to mention a note about the pattern. It says nothing about finishing seams. I think this is common in big four patterns. I know patterns with suggested finicky fabrics do sometimes mention finishing seams. I know in the past, as a beginner, I didn’t know and made mistakes where my fabric had fraying edges showing in parts. So really think about the construction and finish the seams. On the center back, I finished the seams first.

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Pattern: Simplicity 8454 View C

Fabric: Challis Batik from fabric.com

Size: 12 bust graded to 14 waist

Adjustments: 1/4″ lowered neckline, threap loop instead of elastic cording

Overall: It’s not my favorite things I’ve made. I know I’ll wear it, but it’ll be all the time. It’s not really the patterns fault. I think it’s maybe the fabric, or fabric placement with the yoke. Would I make the pattern again? maybe. There’s nothing wrong with it but I’m not sure it’s a ‘to die for gotta make again’ pattern.

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Loungewear · Uncategorized

Halifax Hoodie – August SewMyStyle2018

Clocking in quite a bit early this month for a few reasons. 1) School starts this week so my sewing time is about to go down 2) it was a really quick make 3) I wasn’t sure I’d have enough fabric so I need to start early in case I needed to order fabric.

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This month’s pattern was halifax hoodie by Hey June Handmade. I was super pleased. The pattern is normally $10, got it for $8 with the Sew My Style discount. I recently just picked up the Ebony tee from Closet Case Files, which is a much more simple pattern for $14. The Halifax come with 5 views.

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You may recognize these fabrics from when I made Hudson Pants . I had a bit of fabric leftover I wanted to make use of. I did not have the full amount the pattern called for so I had to make a few adjustments. Obviously, I really couldn’t strategically place the flowers. I just got lucky on that kangaroo pocket. The cowl I had to do in 2 pieces. I just added about 1/4″ to the top foldline and cut two pieces, sewed it together. I also had to cut the sleeves crossgrain. French terry has so much stretch both directions that it wasn’t a problem.

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I was really nervous about the different greys. On the hudson’s, I just used the plain grey on the cuff and waistband so it wasn’t a big deal, but I had the whole sleeves in these. However, I actually love it.

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I made a size Small graded to a Medium at the waist. It’s stretch so I would have probably had plenty of room in the small, I just wanted to make sure though. I didn’t add any length to the sleeves.

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Pattern: Halifax Hoodie by Hey June

Size: Small graded to medium

Fabric: French terry from Cali Fabrics

Alterations:  cut cowl out in 2 pieces, left out drawstring

Overall: quick easy sew. I can totally see myself making more or trying the other views. It’s super comfy. I’m sad I can’t wear it yet, as it’s 90 degree weather here.

Dress · Uncategorized

S8292 Bachelorette Party Dress

I am so happy with this make. I feel like everything about it is beautiful and well made. My sewing is at the caliber I want all my makes to be. So makes up for my last twisted waistband leather shorts make.

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So my best friend is getting married Sept 29th. As maid of honor, I am planning the bachelorette party. I’m cricuting some fun shirts for the daytime, but wanted everyone to wear dresses on the night out. I wanted to pick a color of dress everyone would have, so I went with black…. only to realize I didn’t have a black dress. (I used to have a bodycon black charlotte rouse dress, but was way too tight, made for me in my early twenties, got rid of it).

Kind of a sweet sentiment that I didn’t do intentionally, the pattern I’m using is the pattern my friend (the bride to be) got me for my birthday.Image result for simplicity 8292

I merged version A and B, as I didn’t want it to be maxi but I loved the sleeves of A and I’m a fit and flare girl myself, so I still wanted the flowyness of the skirt. View A and B have the same skirt  on the pattern, just a different cut line, so you could say I made view A and shortened it.

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I did lighten all the photos so you could see the details. Everyone knows black is hard to photograph. So it may look a dark grey, but it is a dark black in real life. I used a Rayon Challis from fabric.com. Totally forgot about getting lining, so I dug through my stash and used leftover double georgette from Pussy Bow Blouse Review : Sew Over It. Not a typical lining material but worked just fine.

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The sleeves are the highlight of this make. I did shortened the sleeves by 1/2″. I love the dramatic length, so I would have loved to keep that 1/2″. I did that purely because I was running out of fabric, I did not have much to play with. I only have $75 fabric budget each month, I buy for each project, I don’t have a fabric stash besides leftover fabric from projects, so I try to save on yardage when I can. It does bite me sometimes, but I made it work.

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View B is a bit on the too short side. I added 1 1/2″ to it and I still could use 2 more inches. Keep in mind, I do not like short dresses, I am a teacher and want to be able to wear all my dresses to work. I’m also a 26 year old who doesn’t go out and party, so short dresses have no place in my wardrobe. and I’m 5′ 7″, so I normally have to add a small amount of length.

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I tried tissue fitting for the first time. I think I did it correctly, but it fit pretty good straight out of the pattern so I didn’t make any changes based on that. I did add pockets, just pulled from my trusty Megan Nielson darling ranges dress pockets.

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Pattern: Simplicity 8292 view A/B

Size: 12 bust graded to 14 waist

Fabric: Rayon Challis from fabric.com

Alterations: sleeves shortened 1/2″ , skirt lengthened 1 1/2″, added pockets

Overall: I love this make so much. I would love to try out the other views as well someday. I’m positive this make will get a lot of wear.

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I made so much in the last few months. I’ve loved it. But my makes will be slowing down as I go back to school next month and with my friend’s wedding, Sept is booked. I will still be doing the Sew My Style challenge, but I’m not sure how many other projects I will have time for. I hope you’ll still follow my makes even though it won’t be as frequent.