I typically just show the final result of a pattern and any hang-up’s I might have had, adjustments I made. Since I’m guest posting for Sew My Style this month, I thought I would try my hand at a sew-a-long.
I found the instructions to be really great, so I’m mostly having step-by-step photos and any tips and tricks I came across.
Fabric I’m using: Rayon Challis from Fabric.com
Attaching the button placket.
Be sure to put the RIGHT side of placket to the WRONG side of shirt. This is so that you topstitch from the front with you fold the placket around. I’ll admit, I got mixed up and did typical RST at first.
Fold the button placket to the front and topstitch. This is a great step to try your hand at no pins. It should be pressed and I preferred the pins out of the way to make sure everything laid flat.
Prepping the burrito method. I love the way burritos finish. Sandwich the back in between the 2 yokes.
I do prefer to topstitch the back yoke when using the burrito method.
Gathering stitches on the front bodice. She doesn’t specify the width but I like to do 2 lines of stitches, one at 1/4″ and the other at 5/8″. I do have to remove the 2nd basting stitch after finishing the burrito method but it does produce even gathering.
Sew the front bodice to one of the back yokes. I get easily confused when I’m doing the burrito method, so to keep it straight in my mind, I sew RST, meaning the right side of the bodice to back yoke side that will face out when it is finished. You can see in the photo that the back yoke is currently unattached at the shoulder.
Burrito time. I start by rolling up the back and then the front. I had to flip mine over after to get the burrito. I’m basically looking for the bodice to be sandwiched between the yokes.
One thing I wished this pattern had was button hole markings on the pattern. However, she gives excellent instructions on finding where to put them. I wish I had one of those button placement accordion tool.
I ended up placing my buttons 2″ up, 4 3/4″ up, 7 1/2″, 10 1/2″ up from the bottom.
sorry this pic is blurry. I took them on my phone and didn’t double check them, but super easy step, baste and then press along basting
Make sure to keep your folds down. You can see my fold was flipping up in the picture but I made sure it was down at the sewing machine.
I’m so sorry I’m missing a picture for this step. To be honest, I found this to be the hardest step too. It’s tricky to get the neckline to match up. What I had to re-read several times in the instructions to comprehend was where the ends of the collar should be pinned to. It should be pinned to end of the placket + seam allowance..
Use a lot of pins in this step. If you want a really clean look inside, I recommend hand-stitching on the inside and then topstitching.
I did a sleeve hack. You can look at it this post here.
If you didn’t want to topstitch, under-stiching would be a nice touch too.
I like to pin the pocket pieces together from the back side
are for the skirt version ONLY
Remember to use a 1″ seam allowance. This is for the elastic waistband casing.
You are trimming the bodice only. this will just reduce bulk. The skirt seam allowance becomes the casing.
I actually didn’t love the instruction on forming the casing. What I did was press 1/4″ under on the skirt seam allowance. Press it up. Pinned and sewed from the wrong side 1/8″ from the edge of casing. Leaving 2″ open for inserting the elastic.
Easy step, nothing to add here. Her measurements were perfect elastic length for me.
Hem it up and add those buttons.
If you are having troubles, feel free to reach out, I’d love to help
My previous SMS20 posts September Sew My Style Inspiration Hacking a Shirred Sleeve: Sept SMS20
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