Uncategorized · swimwear

Swimsuit using free patterns

One of my summer sewing goals was to sew a swimsuit. I not only checked it off my list, but hit it out of the park. My photos are once again indoors. I live in an apartment building (with no pool) so I wasn’t comfortable standing out there in a swimsuit. But once I take it out for a swim, I’ll for sure get some pics and put on insta.

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Let’s start with the top. It’s the Sierra Bra from Madalynne. I’ve seen several posts about using this for a swimsuit, but not many that detailed the changes they did to make it work for a swimsuit, so I’m gonna try to break that down a bit for you.

Besides the obvious of using swimwear fabrics and swimwear elastic, I also lined up the swimwear hook (bought a Joanns) with the end of the front (which ends up being part of the back) and cut the pattern down to match, leaving room to fold elastic over.

I also added swimwear pads. I just ordered them off Amazon. Nobody seems to mention this when sewing swimwear, but I do not want my nipples showing at the pool. Modesty is important to me. So I sewed up the bra tops (serging elastic onto it, then folding over elastic), when I added elastic to the bottom, I slipped the pads in first, locking the pads inside the lining and main fabric.

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I made my own straps using this tutorial from Evie la Luve. I used her second method, but I did a zig zag top stitch, because my machine started skipping stitches, I switched out the needle, rethreaded, not sure what was wrong, but it wasn’t holding together as secure as I wanted, so I secured it with a topstitch.

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The bottoms are the Maxine Panties from Evie la Luve. These were super simple. I mostly used this tutorial which uses that pattern to do so. Otherwise I added 1/4″ to the back and front legs, just because I did sew up  a practice version  using fold over elastic, and it fit great, I was worried I would lose coverage with folding the elastic over when using swimwear elastic. I basically used that tutorial for sewing the Sierra bra elastics as well.

I sewed up a Medium in both the top and bottom. I got the fabric from FashionFabricsClub. Main Fabric and it seems they took the listing down for the lining but there are plenty of swimwear lining options on their site. The Sierra bra calls for 2 yards of lace fabric, keep in mind that normal fabric is a whole lot wider. I bought 2 yards  and probably only used 1 1/4 yard for both the top and bottom.

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Pattern: Sierra Bra and Maxine Panty

Size: Medium

Fabric: Swimwear fabric and lining from fashionfabricsclub

Alterations: quite a bit, all for making it work for swimwear, really no fit adjustments. If I make it again, I might take 1/4″ out of the back piece.

Overall: I love it, I’m so proud of myself. I really feel like it looks store bought. I think the high waist is really flattering on me.

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Loungewear · Uncategorized

Evelyn Romper by Ohh lu lu

I wanted to make PJ’s that go well with my new Suki Kimono . I’ve had my eye on the Evelyn Romper by Ohh Lu Lu for a little bit.  Ever since I saw a blog post from Amy Nicole Studio. I finally got around to making it.

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This is a pretty quick make. I made it in 2 sewing sessions (a few hours each). Making the bias tape probably was what took the most. So if you skipped those pattern pieces and bought bias tape, it’d be even quicker. 3 sewing sessions if you count me redoing the bottoms, we’ll get to that.

I used Charmeuse Satin from Fabric.com. You have to order at least 3 yards. It’s really cheap though. This pattern only uses like half that. I had to use a bit more because I cut the shorts out twice, but I think I can still fit an Ogden out of it.

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Originally I only  made one adjustment. I added one inch to the length of the shorts. When I sewed the top and bottom together using 3/4″ seam allowance, it rode up my butt quite a bit. I unpicked it all and sewed it up with 1/2″ seam allowance. Should have given me an extra 1/2″ in the length. After sleeping in them, I knew if I didn’t redo them, they would never get worn. It was fine when standing, but once I sat or curled up in bed, it was major uncomfortable

Here are the changes I made before I cut the second pair of bottoms out.  I added 1 1/4″ to the top of the shorts. I would have rather added this onto the top part, to have it sit more at my waist, but I didn’t want to re-do it all, and wanted to keep all my bias tape work. I added 1.5″ in addition to the 1″ I had already added to the shorts length, except for I only added it to the side. The pattern has a bit of a flare up, but with my long legs, it gave me diaper vibes. Not super flattering.  The last change I made was I added a tiny wedge in the curve of the back of the shorts, to help it not ride up my butt so much.

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I want to show you a side by side of the bottoms. On the left will be the 1st pair, and the right will be my 2nd version. You can very clearly see where it pulled at my butt in the first pair. Many diaper vibes.

Sizing. I made an extra small in the top and graded to a medium in the waist on down. I used the recommended strap length for extra small but then tightened it just a tad bit more.

I did struggle with doing a narrow hem on the shorts. So I just serged the edges and then folded it under and sewed.

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Pattern: Evelyn Romper by Ohh Lu Lu

Fabric: Satin Charmeuse

Size: Small graded to a medium a the waist

Adjustments: lengthened shorts by 1″ and then an additional 1.5 inch on the sides only, added 1 1/4″ to the top of the shorts, a small wedge in the back crotch curve.

Overall: They are super cute on and a quick sew. I’m not a huge romper person, so we’ll see how much wear these get before I decide if I’ll make them again.

Loungewear · Uncategorized

Suki Kimono #SewMyStyle June

This month’s SewMyStyle was the Suki Kimono by Helen’s Closet. I recently made the Avery Leggings for a Minvera Crafts blog. Sadly, it won’t be on their blog til Sept, but I’ve done some insta stories on them and slipped them into my feed. Other than that, I hadn’t made a pattern by Helen. I was super excited to try her patterns.

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When the patterns were announced back in December, I was conflicted on if I wanted to make this or not. The reason being, I made a robe last year using Vogue 8888. However, a couple things changed my mind. First, the robe I made was from Chiffon, so it was a bit too sheer. I was pretty new to sewing when I made it, and the pattern didn’t specify when to finish the edges, so I’ve got a lot of fraying places.

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So I had 2 goals of sewing the Suki. I wanted to make a robe that had really good seams, with no fraying edges. Secondly, I wanted to see how the pattern was as is, before I go hacking it to death. And I do have hacking plans. I want to make the hack Helen has on her blog for a summer kimono, and I want to make a black sheer cover up for my Taylor Swift costume.

Let’s talk about them seams. Helen recommends serging or zig zag the edges. I wanted to french seam them. Due to this, I had to vary some of the construction. Mainly, I could really tuck the ties into the seam allowances, as it was all enclosed. So instead, I basted the ties in places and then sewed it into the french seams. I’m really happy with my french seams, especially on the armholes. I just got applique left handed scissors, so I used those to trim the seams down before flipping to the wrong side, so that no raw edges peek out the front.

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The seams I’m not as happy with is my stitching in the ditch. Everytime I try stitching in the ditch, it’s always wobbly. Any suggestions? I probably should have hand sewed it. You can’t see it in the sleeve, but every now and then the front flaps over and I wish that was a little cleaner.

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I did omit the pockets. I thought about omitting the inner ties, but my other robe always has trouble staying closed. I decided to add them so I don’t have to worry about if coming up. Even when I’m home alone, I still feel the need to stay modest.

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I only made one other change from the pattern, and that was lengthening the front band. I just am not a fan of that rectangular cut in the original pattern, and Helen posted on how to make that easy change. It did make sewing it up a bit quicker. I taped the piece I cut off the front onto the front band to draft out the length. I still had to cut off a few inches, so there is no need to make the front band longer than that. I did have to cut the front band on the crossgrain.

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Pattern: Suki Kimono by Helen’s Closet

Size: Small graded to medium in the waist

Fabric: Crepe de Chine from Fabric.com.. It’s not available anymore but I’m sure they have something similiar

Alterations: No pockets. Extended front band hack from Helen’s blog. French Seams

Overall: I’m really excited to make more hacked versions. I rarely make exactly the same pattern, but the gives a good base for lots of things.

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Tunic · Uncategorized

Hacking the Ogden Again..

Everybody who makes Indie patterns, make the Ogden Cami from True Bias. If you’ve seen 3 Ogden Cami Hacks then you know I’ve made this one before. I’ve never actually made the Ogden as it’s intended. Why would I start now? haha.

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A month or so ago I went shopping with my mom. Victoria’s Secret’s had a bra I was in need of on sale for $20. While there, I tried on a few other things. One was a Velvet Cami, found here. I loved it but had a couple issues. The biggest issue was the fit. A problem I’ve had before at VS, the armholes were too big.  You can tighten the straps, but then it’s practically doubled up and doesn’t look quite right. My mom smartly said “you can make that” and it was planted in my head.

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It has the look of the Ebony tee from Closet Case Files but in a tank top. I choose to use the Ogden cami, as I already own the pattern, and thought it would be a simple hack. I cut into the middle of the front and back pieces and added a 1″ wedge up to the shorten/lengthen line. This should equate to 4″ added overall. I wish I had added more to be honest. Especially since I sized down from a 4 to a 2 since I was using a knit.

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All the Ogden’s I have made have this look in the back, extra fabric flaring out from the V in the neckline. Any ideas how to fix that? I don’t think it looks that flattering there.

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I used a stretch Velour fabric from Fabric.Com. Velvet must be on trend as it was everywhere in VS, on swimsuit, leggings, and tops. I didn’t hem the top, or finish seams, as Knit doesn’t fray. I did keep the facings in the pattern. It would probably be improved by using bias binding but I didn’t want to make the bias tape, and I wasn’t sure about attaching the straps in a clean manner. I really like the straps sandwiched between the facing.

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I definitely need more tops in my wardrobe. I quickly ran out of tops to wear for Me Made May. Most of my makes are dresses TBH. Ogden is such an adaptable pattern, that I’ve used it a lot. I’d like to make the Durango Tank as well. Anybody have any top suggestions?

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In case you were curious, Cricut Iron On does work on  velvet. I find it hard to keep the back and front straight on the Ogden so a quick Cricut tag really helps.

Pattern: Ogden Cami by True Bias

Size: 2 (normally make it in a 4)

Fabric: Stretch Velour from Fabric.com

Alterations: Sized down, added 1″ wedge in bodice front and back

Overall: I’d like to move the straps over a tad, as it makes a little arm fat as it is currently.  I think I’d want more wedges added too. Obviously this pattern has gotten a lot of love from me. I rarely make the same pattern twice.

Dress · Uncategorized

Myosotis Dress #SewMyStyle2018

The Myosotis Dress is a new pattern from Deer & Doe. It is also May’s SewMyStyle Make. They sure kept the suspense up on this pattern till the last second. It wasn’t released til May 2nd. I’m surprised I got it done so early, as I didn’t want to order fabric til I knew what it would be for.

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It’s my birthday month, so I really wanted to like this months pattern. I was a little hesitant about such a loose fitted, ruffled dress, but I love it. I didn’t want to make view B because it was too similar to the Megan Nielson Darling Ranges Dress (which I already own and have twice) and the Fringe Dress by Chalk & Notch (which is September’s SewMyStyle pattern)

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I picked a Chambray from Fabric.Com. It has stitched white yarn in it which creates lines on the front and dots on the back. I played with using the wrong sides at the collar and ruffles.

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I made a size 36 in the bust and then graded to a size 40 in the waist for the rest. The fit is about perfect except for at the shoulders. A few others have had this problem as well. I do not normally make shoulder adjustments. You can see in the above picture the shoulder wrinkles. It makes it hard to raise your hands all the way. In the next pic is how high I can raise my arms comfortably. So a shoulder adjustment is needed. More room in the back.

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I also added 2″ in length to the ruffles. If I made it again, I would add the length to the skirt instead of the ruffles. I’m 5’7″ for reference and the pattern looks a bit short on the model for being able to wear it at work. 2″ is the perfect amount, I love where it lands.

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I wanted to clarify my grading, because I wasn’t sure what to do in regards to the darts. I used the size 36 for the bust dart and the size 40 for the waist dart. Then I graded the side seams like normal. I wasn’t concerned about the hip measurement, just the waist. Since it’s just the loose-fitting nature of the dress and the 3 button to get the dress on/off, I didn’t want the waist too tight, and I definitely wouldn’t want to go up a size in the bust.

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This dress sort of makes me have babydoll vibes and little house on the prairie feels,  but in a good way. It’s very lightweight and breezy for summer.

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Pattern: Myosotis Dress from Deer and Doe

Fabric: Chambray from fabric.com

Size: 36 in bust graded to 40 at waist

Adjustments: 2″ added to ruffle, shoulder adjustment needed next time

Overall: I love this pattern. Will I make more? Not sure I need more dresses in this style. Possibly after some time passes. I feel like after making the Fringe in September that I’ll have plenty of dresses in this style. I enjoyed making it though.

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purse · Uncategorized

Sweet Pea Saddle Bag Review

 

I have a black crossbody bag from Charming Charlie’s that I use all the time. It was the perfect bag for when I didn’t need to carry much besides my wallet and phone. I’ve had it a long time, probably 4-5 years if I had to guess. The fabric has begun tearing at the magnetic snap. I knew I had to either look for a new one, or make one…. I’m a garment sewer at heart, but I knew I wanted to try to make one.

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I began scouring the internet for patterns. I ended up settling on Sweet Pea Saddle Bag from Blue Calla Patterns. Not only did I like the size of the bag, but it’s a FREE pattern. Purses normally cost around 20-60 dollars for me. I wanted to save money by making it, so a free pattern was just what I needed.

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I actually used leftover fabric, so I only needed to purchase magnetic buttons, a rectangular slide, 2 swivel clips, and a zip. I have all the other materials on hand. I was able to make this for about $8, so that was a win. I used  leftover twill from my Tilly & the Buttons Megan dress for the exterior and a swiss dot cotton fabric leftover from my ogden cami ruffle hack for the lining.

I am loving the purse so much already. I’ve already used it on a couple walks with my pup. Threw her poop bags in there, with my keys and phone. I love crossbody bags so that my hands are free and I don’t have to keep it on my shoulder.

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The directions were very easy to follow. I did make the strap a bit longer, but it’s an adjustable strap, so I don’t know that it matters, as I don’t have it at full length.  I left off the tassel as I didn’t want to buy vinyl and didn’t think the print needed anything extra.

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Pattern: Sweet Pea Saddle Bag by Blue Calla Patterns

Size: one size only

Fabric: leftover fabric, twill for exterior, swiss dot for lining

Adjustments: just added a bit to the strap, maybe 4″

Overall: Although I won’t be switching over to sewing all bags, I loved this. It sewed up easily and quickly. It’s going to get a lot of use. I will definitely consider making this again.

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